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When compiling a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known high-end venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these food giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of north London.

An Shocking Accolade

This small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small shop achieving such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

The small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

The Namesake Offering: Tantuni

However, it is all about the food, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a succulent texture.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a strong punch of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is warmth, kindness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite restaurants. “I feel very pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is set to echo outside its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic achievement.